Schedule Free Roof Quote
Call: (615) 649-5002
.png){kind=logo}
-min.png)
Before we suggest any metal, we spend time understanding why the existing roof looks and behaves the way it does.
We measure slopes and plane sizes instead of guessing from the street. A front gable over the entry might be steep and short; a rear slope over a kitchen and living room might be wide and relatively shallow; a side porch might have a different pitch again. Each of those pitches calls for different minimums and details when you start looking at standing seam, metal shingles, or structural panels.
We trace water paths across the roof. On many Gallatin houses, two or three upper planes feed a single valley or drop onto a lower porch or garage roof. Those locations shape how seams, ribs, and valleys should be aligned. If we know where water lands in real storms, we can layout metal so joints and transitions support that path instead of working against it.
We check the structure under the roof. Houses near town may have plank decking in some areas and plywood in others. Subdivision homes are often fully sheathed, but attachment can be light in places. Barns and shops may have metal on purlins. We want to know where fasteners and clips will land and how they’ll be supported before we choose a system.
We look at what sits under the roof. Some roofs cover finished rooms and stored belongings. Others protect equipment, inventory, or animals. That context matters as much as the shape of the roof itself.
Near the square and older streets, rooflines tend to be steeper and more broken up. You see chimneys coming through the main plane, dormers pushed out toward the eaves, and small porch roofs that connect into taller walls. Many of these roofs have already seen more than one generation of shingles.
On these homes we usually design a metal shingle roof for the main areas, then standing seam for porch roofs and small connectors. Metal shingles let the house keep the slate- or shingle-style profile that suits downtown Gallatin, while the assembly behind it becomes a steel and high-temp underlayment system. Standing seam on smaller lower roofs simplifies the number of joints in the spots that carry a lot of water and foot traffic, such as front steps and back doors.
In planned neighborhoods and along the main access roads, roofs are often truss-framed with full decking and a repeating set of shapes: front gables over garages, hips around corners, long rear slopes over larger rooms, and covered patios or decks tied into the main roof.
Here, standing seam is usually the primary system on exposed main planes and porch roofs. We align panel runs with ridges and hips, keep joints out of the worst water intersections, and choose panel widths that fit the house scale instead of fighting it. In some streets, especially where a consistent shingle look is part of the design, we pair metal shingles on the big faces with standing seam only on porches and accent roofs so the overall look stays in step with the rest of the subdivision.
Gallatin has plenty of roofs that are part of a small compound: a house, a detached garage, a shop, a boat or RV shelter, sometimes a barn. These structures often have simpler roof shapes but more direct exposure.
On these properties we build a roof plan for the entire group. A main house near the lake might receive standing seam on the primary roof and a matching profile on a covered deck. A detached garage and shop might receive ribbed structural steel, detailed with proper substrate, screw pattern, and trim. The plan spells out which roofs will be done now, which systems are going on which building, and how the colors and profiles will tie the property together rather than make each roof look like a separate decision.
Once we understand the building and how you use it, we match metal systems to the job instead of trying to make one product do everything.
Standing seam panels run from eave to ridge and lock together along raised ribs. Fasteners are concealed. This is often the best choice when you want clean lines, fewer exposed joints, and a roof that reads as a continuous surface.
In Gallatin we use standing seam on many primary homes, porches, breezeways, and covered outdoor spaces. Panel width, thickness, and clip spacing are set from the span and framing. Slopes that drain well can use snap-lock systems; lower or more demanding slopes get mechanically seamed ribs that are folded closed. The layout is drawn so seams travel with the architecture, not across it at random.
Metal shingles are individual pressed panels that install like scaled-down roof tiles. They interlock and fasten into solid decking. They work well on steeper roofs with a lot of shape, especially where the house needs to keep a traditional look.
We place metal shingles on older Gallatin homes near town, on brick and siding houses with complex roofs, and on any home where a tall ribbed profile would feel out of place. They let us bring in steel and modern underlayment without asking the house to change its overall character. From the sidewalk, the roof still looks like a shingle or slate roof that happens to be in very good condition.
Ribbed steel panels with exposed fasteners cover barns, shops, sheds, and some simpler house roofs. Installed the right way, they are durable and easy to inspect.
We install ribbed metal on Gallatin barns and shops that see ladders and equipment, on RV and boat shelters, and sometimes on primary homes with straightforward gable roofs where that look suits the property. We anchor panels into structure or decking that has been evaluated, lay out fasteners on a consistent pattern, and form trim for ridges, gables, and eaves so water stays on the face of the panel and exits cleanly.
Most owners care less about marketing language and more about what will happen at their place. The sequence below is what you can expect on a typical Gallatin project.
Walk-through and conversation
We meet at the property, climb the roof, and check transitions, valleys, and penetrations. If the attic is accessible, we look at the underside of the deck for staining or previous repairs. You explain how long you expect to own the property, which structures matter most, and what you want the roof to do for you.
Roof plan and price
We send a written scope that explains which metal systems go where, how we will handle the deck and underlayment, how ventilation will work, and how we will deal with gutters and downspouts. The plan covers all the buildings we looked at, so you can see what it would mean to do just the house, the house plus one outbuilding, or the entire group. Pricing is attached to those clear scopes so you can decide with the full picture in mind.
Removal and preparation
When work begins, crews protect driveways and areas under key roof edges. Existing roofing and flashings are removed so the deck is visible. We repair or replace sheathing where it is soft, cracked, or poorly attached. This is also where we straighten edges, clean up old fascia lines, and smooth out transitions that would otherwise telegraph through the metal.
Underlayment and details
We install high-temperature underlayment across the deck, with extra attention in valleys, around protrusions, and along eaves. New flashings at walls, chimneys, and step areas are installed and integrated with that underlayment. At this stage, water already has a controlled path off the roof, even before the metal goes on.
Metal installation
Standing seam panels, metal shingles, or ribbed panels are installed according to the layout. Clips, screws, and seams follow the patterns and intervals specified for each system. Ridges, hips, and gables are finished with trim that matches the profile and locks the assembly together. Ridge vents or other exhaust elements are set up to work with intake so the roof and attic can move air properly.
Final check and hand-off
We inspect the roof from close up and from normal viewing distances. We clean up the property, sweep for fasteners, and make sure gutters and downspouts are not left clogged by the work. You receive a straightforward summary of what went on each building: the system types, the basic spec details, and the workmanship coverage.
A metal roof is worth considering in Gallatin when the situation on the ground looks something like this:
In those cases, a properly designed metal assembly gives you a clear story about the roof: what it is made of, how it is put together, and how you can expect it to behave over the coming decades.
Do you actually work in Gallatin or are you based too far away?
We install metal roofs on Gallatin homes, barns, and shops as part of our regular Middle Tennessee work. Many of the roof assemblies we build in a typical month are on properties in Sumner County and the surrounding area, and our details for Gallatin projects come from those specific roofs.
Can you start with the house and come back to the barn or shop later?
Yes. On properties with more than one building, we often phase the work. We might start with the house and a key outbuilding, then plan the remaining buildings in a second phase. The roof plan describes how each phase fits together so you know how future work will tie into what we install now.
Is it possible to keep part of my Gallatin roof in shingles and convert problem areas to metal?
Sometimes that is the smartest way to move forward. For example, we might convert low-slope porch roofs, connector roofs, or complex valleys to metal while leaving sound shingle sections in place. We design the transitions so they are durable on their own and ready to integrate with metal if you later decide to convert more of the roof.
Will a metal roof be noticeably louder inside my Gallatin house?
On a house with solid decking, modern underlayment, and insulated ceilings, most owners do not report a significant change in sound. The “tin roof” noise people think of comes from open framing where rain hits steel with air directly behind it. Residential assemblies with multiple layers between the metal and the living space soften that impact.
How much routine maintenance does a Gallatin metal roof need?
Most of the work is simple observation and occasional cleaning. Keeping valleys and gutters clear, watching for branches that may rub the roof, and taking a look after major storms is usually enough for houses. Barns and shops with ribbed panels benefit from periodic checks on exposed fasteners and trims. We can suggest a practical check-in schedule for your property based on trees, access, and how the roofs are used.
Can you re-roof my existing metal barn roof with a better system?
We do re-roof existing metal buildings. We look at the framing, current panel condition, and how the building is used, then decide whether new ribbed panels on improved framing or a different assembly with sheathing and underlayment makes the most sense. The plan is specific to what your barn or shop is supposed to do for you.
If I am building new in Gallatin and know I want metal, when should I bring you into the conversation?
The best time is while plans are still being drawn. Small adjustments in roof pitch, overhangs, and plane layout can make a metal roof much easier to detail and maintain. We can review drawings with your builder or designer and suggest changes that keep the overall look but give you a cleaner, more straightforward roof structure for metal
